MS70 Contents

[Danoman]

Hello All,
Been a while since I last posted - been busy doing the conservation thing on my 20K plus Wheaties - and learning a lot in the process. Although the process is tedious [anything done RIGHT takes time!], I am sold on BadThad's cleaning ladder: Distilled Water, 24 hour soak in Acetone, then immediate dry w/ soft, lint-free towel. After 30 + years in industrial maintenance and suffering some bad experiences with Xylene, I will stick with Acetone. Now, on to the reason for my post . . . . . . In reading coin blogs regarding coin cleaners, I have encountered many, many discussions and questions regarding MS70 Coin Cleaner. It seems that everyone [myself included] wants to know what chemical ingredients are in this stuff. I googled the MSDS for MS70, which [by law] lists the active - and inert - ingredients. Here is a link to the MSDS: http://www.translinesupply.com/PDF/MDSSHEETS/MS707530.MSDS.pdf . I don't have a good enough background in Chemistry to know how these ingredients actually affect copper coins - but I know there are a few experts in this area on LCS. Perhaps you experts can take a gander at this MSDS and translate it for us more mechanically inclined collectors and let us know whether this stuff is worth using.
Thanks In Advance!!!

Danoman

[Maineman750]

Here is a quote on MS70 by BadThad from last year: "Never used it and never will"

[mustbebob]

These comments are directly from the MSDS.

This material is a corrosive material

Avoid contact with aluminum, tin, zinc, and alloys containing these metals.

Any other questions?

[flyhi3]

Avoid contact with aluminum, tin, zinc, and alloys containing these metals.

Don't most coins contain those metals????

[BadThad]

MS70 is primarily a chelating agent (sodium gluconate), an anionic, sulfonate surfactant (solubilizing agent) and sodium hydroxide (lye). I recommend you keep your copper far away from this product. However, I have heard collectors of non-copper coins can have pretty good success with MS70. I have not tried it as it's far too harsh of a cleaner for my tastes. Nonetheless, alkaline solutions are MUCH safer than acidic ones when it comes to coins.

[Danoman]

Thanks to all for your responses! I guess I will not be purchasing any MS70 - and sticking to the tried and true method; distilled water and acetone. However, a friend of mine - who is also a chemist - sent me the "pyramid" diagram that outlines the relative strengths of different solvents, and he recommends that I switch from acetone to xylene, which is a more potent solvent. I will probably pick up a can on my next trip to the hardware store. But, for now, NO MS70!
Thanks To All Again!!!

Danoman

[BadThad]

Thanks to all for your responses! I guess I will not be purchasing any MS70 - and sticking to the tried and true method; distilled water and acetone. However, a friend of mine - who is also a chemist - sent me the "pyramid" diagram that outlines the relative strengths of different solvents, and he recommends that I switch from acetone to xylene, which is a more potent solvent. I will probably pick up a can on my next trip to the hardware store. But, for now, NO MS70!
Thanks To All Again!!!

Danoman

I call it the "polarity ladder", starting with the most polar (water) and working your way to non-polar (xylene). Xylene is an important part of any conservationists toolbox, everyone should have some. Recommended reading if you missed it:

http://www.lincolncentresource.net/f...ad.php?t=24220

[Maineman750]

However, a friend of mine - who is also a chemist - sent me the "pyramid" diagram that outlines the relative strengths of different solvents, and he recommends that I switch from acetone to xylene, which is a more potent solvent

Had you read the sticky at the beginning of this forum,you would have discovered that Thad recommends xylene as well.

[dixiejunksales]

I used it on some UNC coins that had been in a folder in a damp location. I cut it 50% with water and it cleaned the brown fuzzy stuff off and left a wierd purple haze hear and there. I would not recommend it for any coin worth more than 10 cents.

It will eat the brown patina off circulated coins.

I do not think it will hurt already problamatic coins.

[BadThad]

I used it on some UNC coins that had been in a folder in a damp location. I cut it 50% with water and it cleaned the brown fuzzy stuff off and left a wierd purple haze hear and there. I would not recommend it for any coin worth more than 10 cents.

It will eat the brown patina off circulated coins.

I do not think it will hurt already problamatic coins.

Pretty much what other collectors have reported over the years. I've seen quite a few coins that turned blue, also, I've seen the brown patina ruined.