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  1. #11
    Paid Member makecents's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Coin5 View Post
    I can control the light intensity in my scope. It has built in LEDs powered through USB with a hand controlled dimmer. The prob is it comes straight from above and it reflects back to the scope camera on shiny coins and blinds it in the process...
    I also have a fluorescent round lamp incorporated to my big magnifying glass which I use to illuminate the coins in an angle to find incuse or raised; but that's not enough for me as you beat me to it all the time

    I also use that light to illuminate the coins when taking complete pics and raise the scope in the stand as its' own light source is not enough due to the distance.
    Then I have another LED desk lamp which produces a warmer light from above; but weaker.
    Then I have the room lights; but they have no effect on the image.
    Then I have a window which I tried once to use natural lightning and did not make any difference.
    Then I have an auxiliary super powerful LED lamp with no stand yet, that I rigged with a 12V Power supply; but its too strong... I might built a stand and a PWM dimmer for it... but I have no desire to do that at this time...

    However, the main problem is not insufficient lighting in regards to intensity; but the color in the pics which is purple/blueish and I haven't been able to eliminate that. Perhaps, it's because they are all super white cold LEDs. I have tried warmer lights and then it goes reddish. Hummmm.
    I"m using a white paper as the background, maybe that's altering the colors, I will try a black background...

    I may need to get a different scope...

    Thanks,
    Adrian
    PM Ray Parkhurst, the photo expert!! Grey background.

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  3. #12
    Forum Ambassador VAB2013's Avatar
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    You are right Adrian, the background color does make a difference. Depending on the color of the coin, sometimes black works best, sometimes white or grey does. But I have noticed myself that white tends to give a pinkish color to the coin under my LED lights. I like Jim's trick with the paper and have actually done that before, but a modified version. Sometimes I can lay a piece of paper on top of my scope, just beneath the Jansjo's and it cuts down on glare just enough to get a decent shot. I still have to try different things with every single coin to try to get a decent pic. One thing for sure... LED lights are too bright and not user friendly but everything has LED lights now so we might as well get used to it

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  5. #13
    Paid Member jfines69's Avatar
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    Thanks for the follow up Adrian... What software do you use for photo editing???
    Jim
    (A.K.A. Elmer Fudd) Be verwy verwy quiet... I'm hunting coins!!! Good Hunting!!!

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  7. #14
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    Just the picture editing software from Windows. When you open a picture on the top left it will say "Edit, Organize" click there and then you can choose the picture you want to edit. It only allows, exposure color, noise reduction and other simple things. It's cool as it also graphs the pics histogram so you can see the changes. I don't think it allows complex morphology modifications or alike; but it's useful to improve the quality of the pics. I haven't explored all it's possibilities though.
    Thanks,
    Adrian

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  9. #15
    Paid Member jfines69's Avatar
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    Which Windows version do you have??? I use Microsoft Digital Image Pro 10... Has a lot of different stuff I can do with images if needed... I have had it at least 10 years... If you google it you may be able to find a free download???
    Jim
    (A.K.A. Elmer Fudd) Be verwy verwy quiet... I'm hunting coins!!! Good Hunting!!!

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  11. #16
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    Old version Windows 7. Thanks for the info Jim; but honestly I'm happy with what I can do with this one I use, at least for now...
    Thanks again,
    Adrian

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  13. #17
    Paid Member jfines69's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Coin5 View Post
    Old version Windows 7. Thanks for the info Jim; but honestly I'm happy with what I can do with this one I use, at least for now...
    Thanks again,
    Adrian
    Cool... Thanks for the follow up... As long as your are happy with what you have then stick with it... Your pics are better than when I first started out
    Jim
    (A.K.A. Elmer Fudd) Be verwy verwy quiet... I'm hunting coins!!! Good Hunting!!!

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  15. #18
    Registered User coop's Avatar
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    So what causes rim cuds? It is a part of the ridge area of the outside of the die that chips away:
    ---Washington_Quarter_die_core77.com_AA1.jpg((DIE_CRACK_-_RIM_CUD_-_DIE_CUD_KOINPRO_AAA.jpg
    I had to add the rim cud area onto the image. To show where and how it does happen. Ken Potters Images, My editing.
    Richard S. Cooper Some have asked about my images I use, and I'm glad to say I've completed a DVD of these. Ask if you are interested. Newer members like these.

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  17. #19
    Forum Ambassador VAB2013's Avatar
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    Thanks coop for this awesome illustration and simulation of how a rim cud happens! I would not have thought that die cracks would extend so far down on the die, that is cool to see on a real die! Geez... the die producing cuds has mass destruction! All this time I thought the damage was just to the face of the die!

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  19. #20
    Paid Member Petespockets55's Avatar
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    Excellent images. Thanks COOP.

    (I've heard the area of the die that forms the rim referred to as a "rim gutter". Does anyone know if this is the correct terminology?)

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