m5 m4 objective and light

[Rollem]

Well the new objectives I love. But still haven't solved my light diffusing.

Tried tissue, different plastic and light adjustment, any hints?also angles.
First IMAGE IS A m5 others are PLAIN 4X

James

[hasfam]

Nice job James. I like #3 & 4 the best. Besides working on the lighting angle, try experimenting with distance too. When I take close up shots, I elevate the coin so it's closer to the scope lens, adjust the focus closer and bring my lights right down on top of the coin. Everything is a tight squeeze. Then focus my camera and slight adjust the lighting if needed. Again, this is my way, using antiquated equipment. Here are a couple of examples

[ray_parkhurst]

James...turn down your contrast in-camera, and lower your exposure by 1/3-2/3 Ev. You can also make a pingpong diffuser work with these objectives, or just use a piece of vellum or translucent craft paper. The front nosepiece of the objectives is removable (unscrews), and you can install a piece of vellum with a hole cut out onto the front of the objective. Then shine your light onto the vellum and it will make a diffuse source. But be careful to not make the piece of vellum too big or you'll get too much side-lighting...Ray

PS after looking again at your pics, it seems you are using only one light...try another light and that will reduce the highlights created by the first light.

[jcuve]

Good advice thus far. Experiment, experiment & experiment. Try anything and everything once (just don't forget what you did so you can replicate it later..)

[ray_parkhurst]

James...looking at your pics yet again, it seems your magnification is beyond the rating of the objective. This probably means your extension is too long. For rated magnification on these objectives, total extension (including the camera internal extension to the sensor) needs to be about 160mm. I think you're using Canon, which has 44mm register distance to sensor, so you need about 116mm from the camera to the end of the objective (not mounting plane, all the way to the front end). Your first pic looks to be around 7x magnification rather than 5x. Now, you may want the higher mag, and it won't hurt much, but I just wanted you to realize that you're beyond the optimum for the objective...Ray

[hasfam]

Funny, my advice sounds like it came from a 5 year old kindergartner compared to Ray's college professor PhD advice. Jason is right in that experimentation never hurts.

[ray_parkhurst]

Funny, my advice sounds like it came from a 5 year old kindergartner compared to Ray's college professor PhD advice. Jason is right in that experimentation never hurts.

Not at all, your advice is right on the money...Ray

[Rollem]

Thanks Ray & Rock, I was thinking I should get date and mint mark in the m5, since I could in the 4x.

Guessing that is the distance thing.

I will set my distances and redoing my lighting. "I will be back with results, later"

Thanks Guys

[Rollem]

Ray you were right on with the 116MM. WOW Thanks.

Now was working with 2 jansjo's and one quit working after the 3rd photo. Wofe says she will pick me up pinpong balls tomorrow.
I think my stand isn't square with camera I am having a hard time getting the entire spectrum to focus. if I turn disk opposite side focuses.

In last image I actually pulled forward on stand and focus changed. I need to get out tools check light and tighten up stand and bellows.

Thanks
James

[onecent1909]

When I was into photog.. I used a Styrofoam coffee cup as a diffuser
cheap and plentiful

[ray_parkhurst]

Here is how I have configured my Ping Pong diffuser with the Nikon 4Plan. As I said above, the front part of the objective is just a trim ring and it unscrews. I drilled a hole in the PPB to just fit over the threads, then screwed the trim ring back in place to hold the PPB firmly. Notice the black painted area of the PPB. This is the first time I've published this detail, but it is very important in order to control the direction of the light hitting the coin.

Have fun cutting the PPB in half and drilling the hole. I recommend buying a pack of a dozen PPB, and then hoping you get one good one out of it! They're very wily devils when you are trying to cut or drill them...

http://i943.photobucket.com/albums/ad273/rparkhurst/PingPong001_01.jpg
http://i943.photobucket.com/albums/ad273/rparkhurst/PingPong002_01.jpg

[Rollem]

Ingenious Ray, just send me that one I'll send you the dozen ppb.:bigsmile:

Thanks will be trying that very soon. WE WILL KEEP THAT TRICK A SECRET.

James

[Rollem]

Here is a couple of shots after PPB difusser.

I did adj. contast and exp.

This is time consuming "Do not try this at home"

Leave it to the pros.
James

[ray_parkhurst]

Here is a couple of shots after PPB difusser.

I did adj. contast and exp.

This is time consuming "Do not try this at home"

Leave it to the pros.
James

Better, but still looking a bit too contrasty and with too bright highlights.

I'll share another trick, but don't tell anyone else...

Try putting a piece of opaque tape, maybe 1/4-1/2 inch wide, over the clear area of the PPB. Then adjust the PPB so the tape is at 12:00 and shine a single light right at the tape. This will block the direct light coming from 12:00 and simulate a diffused dual light source. By spreading the light out it will further diffuse the lighting and reduce your highlights.

[Rollem]

Ok Ray the first is where I started with no tape. The next 2 are with tape in different position.

If I can write down where everything goes I like shots 2 and 3 better.

James getting closer ( I think)

[simonm]

George, I like pic 3 the best out of the ones you just posted.

[ray_parkhurst]

The split lighting shots are definitely improved, but all the shots are still way too bright and have blown out areas. If you have reduced the exposure, there is something going wrong somewhere. It almost appears you have increased instead of reduced the exposure, OR perhaps your metering is not working correctly. In the Live View mode there is a white box that defines where the zoom view will zoom into. The white box also defines where the automatic exposure will optimize levels. Make sure this white box is encompassing the brightest highlights in the shot. If you do this, you can guarantee the shot will not over-expose the highlights, and indeed the -Ev value you select will use the boxed area as the starting point.

You also might want to paint more of the PPB. This will ensure only the highest angle lighting hits the coin. You can also paint a ring near the objective itself, so that light doesn't enter the cone of the PPB that can't go directly to the coin. When this happens, the light reflects off the inner surface and hits the coin from a low angle. Painting the inside surface of the PPB over where you painted the outside surface can help keep this from happening...

[Rollem]

I think my base disk being black was killing my light.
I changed it to a white base and shined the light down on it and reflected it up into PPB.

Made a huge difference to me. I still have only one light one is broken.

James

[ray_parkhurst]

Lots fewer blown out highlights, so that's good. But the contrast is lower since the light is coming from more directions...Ray

[Rollem]

Lots fewer blown out highlights, so that's good. But the contrast is lower since the light is coming from more directions...Ray

Yes I saw that, when I get the other light replaced I am going to get back to the lighting again.
I didn't change the photos any with editor.

Thanks Lots Ray, you've been a great resource.

James