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I agree with enamel on this one Dearing. One thing that might help you is to compare your coin to the doubled die listings on coppercoins.com go to this link for the advanced search. https://coppercoins.com/advsearch.php
By looking at the photos of the listed doubled dies you will start to become familiar with what to look for on the different years.
There are also listings at doubleddie.com and varietyvista.com so you can go there and look too.
I have found some really nice 60's Lincolns with some really thick n bold dates just got em in a book, cant tell if they are doubled Die or not. I thought Doubled Die meant you would see another set of letters or numbers pertruding from under the other... but im learning thats not the case lol
I have found some really nice 60's Lincolns with some really thick n bold dates just got em in a book, cant tell if they are doubled Die or not. I thought Doubled Die meant you would see another set of letters or numbers pertruding from under the other... but im learning thats not the case lol
It depends on the class (type) of doubled die.
On the class 6 ones the date might just be wide or the tails look like paddles.
Still, in the end the ones with a truly strong separated date will probably be the big deals but you only have a few monsters like the 55, 72, 36, 42-S, 71-S proofs that really are that way on the dates. A lot of other stuff has good value but it depends, it's a combination of strength, rarity, interest level and more that sets the values.
I figure thats MD prolly then.
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