Scopes - Pictures for amateurs

[Arjohn]

Still being new to searching cents, I bought a Celestron scope and was going to use it for pictures. The LEDS are on all the time -- I have (had -- mislaid somewhere) and nice foam doughnut that fit over the lights and would shade them well. However, the set up and positioning is so difficult for me. I stuck with my 60X loupe. However a discussion of Hand Held scope came up. This has renewed my interest.... I post some results -- a 1941 and a 2013 Cent are the subjects... How bad are they??
Ones that have a .1 suffix on teh number means they went through my photo software (Irfanview)

[Maineman750]

The 2013...not so good. The 1941, not bad except some seem out of focus

[coop]

Focus on the field next to the device that till help. On the 2013's images you need a diffuser on your light source. What are you using? A diffuser can be a plastic grocery bag or white bond paper/rice paper single layer of facial tissue. This cuts down the glare and lets the light shine through.

[Arjohn]

Thank you -- Focus is messy because I was hand-held.. I need a better way to mount/hold for steady in focus shots.
Yes I am exploring light diffusing now..... I had a foam blocker that stopped TOO much light...
Thank you for guidance -- I will drop more pics as I go, so please stop by and comment!

[Arjohn]

using stand and Irfanview

I was going for the best shot (Light diffuser in place - packing foam)... using software to help.
Diffuser is not enough for shiny coins but seem GREAT on toned Cents

[VAB2013]

Arjohn, I feel your aggravation! I have tried many different things for light diffusion, focus and full coin shots and finally got tired of messing with my hand held scope and decided I could not make it any better. In lieu of the foam blocker, try cutting a paper template that will cover the underneath side (cut a hole for the lens) punch holes with a needle where the LED's are, a few at a time until you get a desired amount of light. Or you could cover the LED's with cloudy scotch tape. For full coin shots, I cut the bottom out of a plastic cup that was the same diameter as my scope, wedge the scope in the bottom of the cup, place a coin underneath and then start cutting down the height of the cup until you get a good focus distance range. Then use different colors of backgrounds underneath your coin. Sometimes white works well, sometimes black, etc. I know my photos are totally lacking but I have done the best I can do. Check with the manufacturer on the software availability that will allow you to adjust the color settings. If you can do that it will also help some with the glare and give the coin a more natural look. I am certainly no expert photographer, but I have been around the block with this zOrb more times that I want to think about. I really like it for quick searches (will use my loupe if I need to) but I don't like having to squint one eye closed unless I have to

[georoxx]

These are a pain when attempting to shoot uncirculated cents. The glare is uncontrollable when trying to draw the line between enought light to capture your anomaly... and blinding everyone. I think they are ok for examination. Not so great for snapping pics. They work really well on things that are not shiny, like fabric, skin and bugs. (Ewww.)

-George

[Arjohn]

Arjohn, I feel your aggravation! . For full coin shots, I cut the bottom out of a plastic cup that was the same diameter as my scope, wedge the scope in the bottom of the cup, place a coin underneath and then start cutting down the height of the cup until you get a good focus distance range.

Like that idea a bunch!

[Chugly]

I too feel your pain in all of this. Especially with uncirculated coins coupled with LED lighting. I agree with George that these setup's are good for examination, but severely limited for taking good pictures.

My recommendation would be to keep your current set up for searching, but then move to an entirely different setup for pictures. With a good dissection microscope and non LED, DIRECTIONAL lighting (incandescent or quartz) you can do a lot. Having the option to apply directional light at varying angles can improve pictures so much. This gives you the option to really focus on the major pick up points for any variety. By applying "step down" lighting, - light that hits the high parts of the design first, then "steps down" to the doubled or split serf part can make these anomalies really pop. Plus, if you can get ahold of a digital SLR camera and good phototube your pictures can become world class. All of this costs, but if you keep an eye out, it can be attained for under $500 in my experience. No matter what, good luck with all of this! I am certainly no expert, but this is what I have learned so far.

[Arjohn]

That's it -- Money --- $300+ is tough to come by

[Chugly]

I hear you there! You do have good shots so far, especially on the 1941. They would be sufficient to tell a decent rpm or doubled die so that's a great start. Hopefully, some of the above fixes mentioned by others will help too. A lot of this involves "adaptive experimentation." Going with what works, and ditching things that don't.

[Gunnovice09]

This is the microscope I use and I love it! Can't beat the price either and all I have to do for pics is put my camera right up to the lens and just use a desk lamp for light. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005C6...1219612&sr=8-4

[VAB2013]

This is the microscope I use and I love it! Can't beat the price either and all I have to do for pics is put my camera right up to the lens and just use a desk lamp for light. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005C6...1219612&sr=8-4

That is a great deal, thanks for the tip!

[Gunnovice09]

I don't use the LED on it for pics or searching just a lamp.