How to search BU and OBW rolls?

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  • Maineman750
    Administrator

    • Apr 2011
    • 12079

    #16
    Originally posted by ray_parkhurst

    In a typical searching session, I put dozens of coins into holders, and I can't imagine rinsing each one with acetone. How do you guys who use acetone stand the fumes and fire hazards? My wife would never put up with that.
    I have a garage where I do all my projects....as for fire hazards it's really no more dangerous than fingernail polish remover.
    https://www.ebay.com/sch/maineman750...75.m3561.l2562

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    • jfines69
      Member
      • Jun 2010
      • 28848

      #17
      Originally posted by ray_parkhurst
      I forgot to mention something important...just before putting the coin into a holder (2x2, lighthouse, whitman 2-piece, etc) I use an air blower (Giotto Rocket Duster) to blow off the obverse and reverse of the coin, and both sides of the holder, to make sure any lint or dust particles are removed.

      In a typical searching session, I put dozens of coins into holders, and I can't imagine rinsing each one with acetone. How do you guys who use acetone stand the fumes and fire hazards? My wife would never put up with that.
      Drink more egg nogg
      Jim
      (A.K.A. Elmer Fudd) Be verwy verwy quiet... I'm hunting coins!!! Good Hunting!!!

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      • GrumpyEd
        Member
        • Jan 2013
        • 7229

        #18
        Mineral oil should be avoided at all costs with coins. Acetone should not be used to remove oil, it is not soluble in acetone which explains your "mottled appearance" after rinsing. Xylene is vastly superior at removing oil from anything - like dissolves like, oil is highly soluble in xylene. Use of mineral oil will not affect the grade. However, it may affect the chances of receiving a grade from a TPG if it is detected.
        Thanks for the explanation!

        I only knew the results weren't good.

        I do use mineral oil on corroded or porous coins (like metal detecting finds) that aren't worth real conservation and not worth grading but want to clean up and if nothing else temporarily slow them from getting worse.

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        • ray_parkhurst
          Paid Member

          • Dec 2011
          • 1855

          #19
          In the 58 1955-S rolls I went through recently, 2 or maybe 3 of them were a little "off". The color was a bit too brassy, and when I stacked them they didn't make a normal metallic clinking sound, but were a bit muffled. Closer inspection showed that someone had oiled them at some point in the past. They ended up going in the cull box (after searching for RPM#1...) for later spending. Totally ruined.
          Builder of Custom Coin Photography Setups. PM me with your needs or visit http://macrocoins.com

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          • Arjohn
            Member
            • Mar 2013
            • 828

            #20
            Originally posted by ray_parkhurst
            I forgot to mention something important...just before putting the coin into a holder (2x2, lighthouse, whitman 2-piece, etc) I use an air blower (Giotto Rocket Duster) to blow off the obverse and reverse of the coin, and both sides of the holder, to make sure any lint or dust particles are removed.

            In a typical searching session, I put dozens of coins into holders, and I can't imagine rinsing each one with acetone. How do you guys who use acetone stand the fumes and fire hazards? My wife would never put up with that.
            LOVE the dust blower idea -- thanks. As far as acetone.. I us a squeeze bottle that allows me to drip onto the coin and blot off with microfiber. To be honest don't notice fumes...
            ArJohn

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            • BadThad
              Member
              • Jan 2009
              • 3011

              #21
              Originally posted by ray_parkhurst
              I forgot to mention something important...just before putting the coin into a holder (2x2, lighthouse, whitman 2-piece, etc) I use an air blower (Giotto Rocket Duster) to blow off the obverse and reverse of the coin, and both sides of the holder, to make sure any lint or dust particles are removed.

              In a typical searching session, I put dozens of coins into holders, and I can't imagine rinsing each one with acetone. How do you guys who use acetone stand the fumes and fire hazards? My wife would never put up with that.
              I use a glass petri dish and a disposable, acetone resistant pipet. I store my acetone in 1 pint glass jars so I just dip the pipet into it. It only takes about 1 mL of fluid to rinse off both sides ...just catch it in the dish. That small quantity evaporates almost instantly. I have a fan blowing in the room, almost no noticeable fumes.
              Attached Files
              Last edited by BadThad; 01-31-2015, 04:49 PM.
              VERDI-CARE™ ALL METAL CONSERVATION FLUID

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              • BadThad
                Member
                • Jan 2009
                • 3011

                #22
                Originally posted by GrumpyEd
                Thanks for the explanation!

                I only knew the results weren't good.

                I do use mineral oil on corroded or porous coins (like metal detecting finds) that aren't worth real conservation and not worth grading but want to clean up and if nothing else temporarily slow them from getting worse.
                Detecting finds are fine for oil, that's probably the cheapest and best way to get some kind of protection on them. If I was saving detector finds, I might just put them into a glass jar, fill it with oil and cap it. I would only use "white oil" for that purpose. It's the cleanest grade of mineral oil you can buy cheaply.

                So, you're correct, there are exceptions to my general rule. Thanks for pointing it out.
                VERDI-CARE™ ALL METAL CONSERVATION FLUID

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