Grading contents of a 1968-S Lincoln OBW

[silver1985]

I've been evaluating the contents of two 1968-S Lincoln OBW rolls that was placed in my grandfathers vault in March 1969.
The attached image is the tenth coin out of the roll and is the best coin/condition so far.
I would appreciate everyones' comments on whether I'm getting any closer to a MS67 rating.

[jfines69]

I am no grader by far but (It may be light reflection) I see a lot of nicks, dings and scratches on the obv and rev so I would say a high AU!!!

[ray_parkhurst]

The fields need to be near perfect to get a "real" 67 grade. I've seen coins with field marks in 67 holders but they are not worth 67 money. Your coin shown has too many field marks in front of the face even to get a 66 IMO. I'd say it would get a righteous 65. Nice cameo contrast though, which might bump it up a grade on a good day.

[jfines69]

Good thing I do not grade for a living Thanks Ray!!!

[BadThad]

I agree with Ray, too many field distrations and, in general, hits. A 67 is difficult to hit, there's a reason PCGS values a 67 at over $400.

Your coin also appears to have a light verdigris film, VC would instantly remove such a film if you're interested. I've removed that type of verdigris from many OBW coins.

[silver1985]

verdigris

I agree with Ray, too many field distrations and, in general, hits. A 67 is difficult to hit, there's a reason PCGS values a 67 at over $400.

Your coin also appears to have a light verdigris film, VC would instantly remove such a film if you're interested. I've removed that type of verdigris from many OBW coins.

Thanks for the tip on verdigris, BadThad!

I found this website that looks like a thorough education on Verdigris. I've never heard of the term before.

http://www.ebay.com/gds/How-to-Remove-Verdigris-From-Coins-/10000000017991989/g.html

[silver1985]

another gem

The fields need to be near perfect to get a "real" 67 grade. I've seen coins with field marks in 67 holders but they are not worth 67 money. Your coin shown has too many field marks in front of the face even to get a 66 IMO. I'd say it would get a righteous 65. Nice cameo contrast though, which might bump it up a grade on a good day.

Here is image of a another coin (#100) that was in the same roll.
I have placed a view of the reverse side on this coin (#100) next to a PCGS rated coin.
How would my new find/selection (i.e., coin #100) compare to the PCGS rated coin in this pic?
Thanks for your review and evaluation!
PS: I hope I don't have to dig into a proof set to met the PCGS/Sheldon guideline. HA!

[willbrooks]

Thanks for the tip on verdigris, BadThad!

I found this website that looks like a thorough education on Verdigris. I've never heard of the term before.
http://www.ebay.com/gds/How-to-Remov...7991989/g.html

In case you don't realize it, the article you just linked to was written by BadThad.

[silver1985]

I read most of your article about Verdigris on Ebay and found it very interesting. I then researched the topic on Wikipedia to learn more about the subject.
Wikipedia states that copper-acetate ("verdigris") melts at 239 degrees F and decomposes at 464 degrees F.
Have you done any research into these facts, and how it may be of interest to numismatics.
In other words, can you melt the stuff off the coin without damaging it? Such as, without fusing into the copper like plumbers solder.

[BadThad]

Here is image of a another coin (#100) that was in the same roll.
I have placed a view of the reverse side on this coin (#100) next to a PCGS rated coin.
How would my new find/selection (i.e., coin #100) compare to the PCGS rated coin in this pic?
Thanks for your review and evaluation!
PS: I hope I don't have to dig into a proof set to met the PCGS/Sheldon guideline. HA!

Your coin has more hits, most critical, in the fields to left and right of EPU.

Also, keep in mind, once you get to 66 and up, luster because VERY important. You can't see luster very well in pictures, in fact, all the PCGS pictures rarely show it. To hit 67 a coin must have very minimal distractions and blazing luster.

[BadThad]

I read most of your article about Verdigris on Ebay and found it very interesting. I then researched the topic on Wikipedia to learn more about the subject.
Wikipedia states that copper-acetate ("verdigris") melts at 239 degrees F and decomposes at 464 degrees F.
Have you done any research into these facts, and how it may be of interest to numismatics.
In other words, can you melt the stuff off the coin without damaging it? Such as, without fusing into the copper like plumbers solder.

Of course. When I was laid-off in 2009 I starting writing a book on the topic. It's mostly done but I ran out of time and energy to finish it up. The book covers every aspect of copper coin verdigris.

Heat is a big problem with copper, it causes it to change all sorts of colors which obviously detract from the originality of a coin. Yes, it 100% works to remove verdigris....I've done is many times. However, in the end, you're left with an obviously cooked and altered coin.

[BadThad]

Here's some examples of what happens when you heat a coin:

[silver1985]

Here's some examples of what happens when you heat a coin:

Thanks! I'll turn the oven back off.
What temperature caused this damage?

[silver1985]

Thanks! I'll turn the oven back off.
What temperature caused this damage?

After emptying two OBW rolls of 1968-S Lincolns that were in a home vault for 46 years, I was faced with the task of what to do with them now.
My best economical choice/solution was to put each of the 100 coins into a separate 2x3 inch zip-lock bag from Walmart.
However, I was uncertain as to whether the zip-locks were made of plastic that contained chlorine (i.e. PVC), or other chemical that would eventually damage the copper surface of the coin. From my internet search to answer this question, I found one source (don't remember which one) that contained a statement by a MadNumismatic, who was a chemist by profession, that he heated his copper coins to 125 degrees and put them in a zip[lock to prevent verdigris. So, hopefully, putting all the lusterous uncirculated copper coins into zip-lock bags will be ok, and the temperature to which you heated your copper coins must have been significantly greater than 125 degrees.

[BadThad]

Thanks! I'll turn the oven back off.
What temperature caused this damage?

Very hot, butane mini-torch.