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My advice: If you don't already have a tube marked "1960D rpms not worth attributing," you should start one. Or else ask Larry. He is a beast at these!
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My advice: If you don't already have a tube marked "1960D rpms not worth attributing," you should start one. Or else ask Larry. He is a beast at these!
For real...I'm labeling a pill bottle now.
"And he will tell you, skill is late — A Mightier than He —
Has ministered before Him — There's no Vitality."
These really are great practice to work on attributing. The problem with a lot of these "tilted/rotated" types are that many are not listed. That is, at least until Wexler get's his 1960-D RPM files rebuilt. I think he has something like 260+ 1960-D RPM's identified!! He recently published the 1959-D list (somewhere around 170 RPM's !!), so I am hoping the 1960-D's won't be too far behind. What a monumental task, regardless!
I am no expert, but I have been doing this a long time and I might give you a few tips that will hopefully help... I try to follow the same general process when working on these. It helps to have a small sticky note where you can record potential matches and then cross them off as they are eliminated as possibilities later. The sticky note also lets you record progress to a point, but lets you keep record of where you are at if you need to take breaks, and believe me, you will!
I start off by carefully noting the mint mark's exact location in relation to the date. See how the D on your coin is punched quite low and a good deal below the tail of the 9? This is a great marker to start with. By definition, ANY coin that has a mint mark location even slightly different than this one, CAN NOT be the same die! Thus, it can be positively crossed off the list if its placement is different, even if the RPM itself looks identical or almost so to the one your are trying to attribute. By comparing your coins mint mark placement to the photo's provided on Coppercoins, you can cross off a lot of 1960-D RPM listing's. That is, any coin that has a mint mark punched any higher than level with the 9 (or higher), or conversely any lower than your D. By further refining the east-west placement of the mint mark, you can eliminate even more listings that don't fit the right placement.
Furthermore, you can ignore pages 11-13 (and half of page 14) on Coppercoins, as those are all small date listings.
Finally, after narrowing down your list using the above criteria, ONLY then should you start to look for prominent die markers. Hopefully, you were able to narrow down your list to 30 possible dies or less by this point, but from here is where the real dirty work begins. Hopefully, from there your coin has some prominent die markers that are also noted by Coppercoins or CONECA. It certainly takes practice to find these matches as many times it takes an exact lighting angle to make them visible. Under the wrong lighting, they might not look anything like the Coppercoins or CONECA photo's.
I can say, it is quite fulfilling to make a positive attribution on any tilted or rotated 1960-D RPM. I guess that's what keeps me working on them. I really do have to pick my times though. Some days, they turn my mind to mush in 30 seconds or less and no amount of egg nog will bring me back! I wish you good luck, and will do my best to help, whenever I have extra time. Happy searching!
Frank, I have a box that is bigger than most pill bottles!! I find more than I have time to attribute because I enjoy searching the most. John gives some great advice and I agree with him that there can be a lot of satisfaction in attributing one correctly!! Good luck and I hope you nail it!!
What if you had a imaging overlay template so you could overlay the position of the mint mark on your coin, and then take the template, and check the ones you had selected for a possible match? or does that technology exist? I found your post very informative. Thank you.......................Dan
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