Thanks experts for help grade 1968 s cent it's very shine
1968 s shine penny help please
Collapse
X
-
Your coin is a Proof 1968 S cent
in case you do not know
Proofs coins are made with specially made blanks or planchettes and specially made dies
these coins are sold to collectors by the mint
this one is called an IMPAIRED PROOF as it has circulated and slightly damaged
the condition can be classified on the 1-70 scale that circulation coin are ( ex good 4.. very fine 20, mint state 65 )
yours being impaired would not have a high value as you can buy a nice example for under $2.00Member: Florida State representative for the ANA, Florida state representative for CONECA, F.U.N. and the Ocala Coin Club -
Do check it out, there is a nice 68-S proof DDO.
If it's not that one, being impaired it's not worth much but still neat to find any proofs in circulation.
Comment
-
Not sure if you found it searching rolls, but it is a very nice proof cent and rare to find these in circulation! Like GrumpyEd and onecent1909 said, if it's a doubled die, you've got something, if not then the value is much lower.
Compare yours to this doubled die and tell us what you think
Last edited by VAB2013; 10-21-2017, 06:48 PM.Comment
-
The surface where there is no design on a proof is like a mirror.
. You can hold a card or paper with writing in front of a proof coin and read the writing on the coin, circulation strike coins do not really do that . unless they are considered PROOF LIKE
. a proof coin surface just looks different
Proof dies do not strike as many coins and not at the same fast speeds so there is no/to very little die flow lines
This (flow lines) gives the radiant cart wheel effect on circulating coins and the surface looks different than a proof surface
. The proof coins are struck twice so the details are very strong and complete 99.99% of the time
.
The rim will be "square" on a proof not rounded
. The rim top, side, and touching the surface will be 90 degrees or awfully close.
. Circulation strike coin rims are more rounded
.
In 1968 on proofs there were not many Cameo devices. In later years on proofs the device were frosted or had a cameo look
. circulation coins do not have this cameo mostly
.
Except for a select few coins ( bullion, commemorative) all proof coins from 1968 to current were made in San Francisco.
. Some circulation coins in that time frame were also made at San Francisco
These are just some of the diferences
Look at your 1968 S proof cent with a magnifying glass, then look at an uncirculated red cent from 1968 to 1990
Examine them, look at both of them, See what you can see as a difference.
Then report back if you saw anything on my list or anything not on my list that you see as different.Last edited by onecent1909; 10-22-2017, 12:48 PM.Member: Florida State representative for the ANA, Florida state representative for CONECA, F.U.N. and the Ocala Coin ClubComment
-
There are reasons that impaired proofs from common years don't have much value.
The reasons are, few people collect singles (some collectors do) but most people buy complete proof sets for collections or for kids birthyear. Certain dates are common like some late 60s and 70s and 80s because they were cheap from the mint and lots of people bought 5 or more sets. The earlier sets or singles (like really old stuff or IHCs or early wheats or other denominations that came in cardboard boxes or as singles in the old days) have more value (there are whole periods of no proof sets) then the later stuff has more value because it costed more as a set because they added more coins and better quality (like the frost on almost everything not just scarce cameos and they added silver proof sets, so the higher purchase price meant less people buy and when they do buy they buy less sets.
Back to the common 60s-70s-80s, they have book value and buy/sell prices but most dealers have tons of them and don't want them, stuff like 79 and 82 are dirt common and dealers have more than they can sell so if you bring a set they may not buy them at book prices (which may be lower than when bought new from the mint). Then the other problem is, people like me. When young if I got a proof set the first stupid thing I did was to toss the packaging (box) and toss the set in my coin box and get the plastic scratched up. Now if you try selling a common set to a dealer and it has no box and a scratched up plastic case they won't want it and if any coins are spotty they won't want it, they might not even take it at face value or they'll tell you to spend them. Even worse if the case was opened and it's not complete and spotty, they'll tell you to spend it. If they get them buying a collection, they might toss them in the cash register because they don't have space for junk that nobody wants and giving it out in change may make a customer happy. The other way they get spent is from stolen collections or they get inherited by non collectors and they get spent. Almost instantly when spent they get impaired. Anyway, sorry for the long post. Just trying to explain why we see proofs in circulation and some aren't worth much.Comment
-
Thank you Ed! I always thought it would be cool to find a proof cent that was dropped into circulation, and so far I have not. I used to think they would be worth something, but now after reading your information, I understand why they are not.Comment
Comment